Sammy,

The locomotive has been moved countless times in the past 6 years, but what I'm saying is (based on my photos from the time when the main rods and wrist pins were first removed) the driving wheels appear to be in pretty much exactly the same position as they were when the wrist pin was first removed.

One complication is, because the wrist pin is just so heavy, and also because space is so tight, and it is such an awkward space to work in, for our own safety we are not keen on trying to find some awkward way of maneuvering the pin into position through experimentation. Hence we have opted to roll the locomotive back a few feet so that the crosshead will be over the space between the rear wheel of the engine truck and the 1st driving wheel, which will for sure provide us with plenty of room to get the wrist pin inside the crosshead.

Anyhow, I was originally seeking answers to two questions:

1) Has anyone developed a technique for actually lifting the wrist pin into place...

... that is inherently safer than just two guys trying to strongarm the thing into place in a very cramped location while crouching in a very awkward position. (already had a close call, when the wrist pin slipped out of our hands)

2) Is there a certain orientation of the wheels that will allow one to install and remove the wrist pin from the crosshead AND also remove the knuckle pins that connect the front and back siderods to the intermediate rod (on an 8-wheeled locomotive), without having to move the locomotive several times.

...in the course of our recent round of work, we have found that in order to get the knuckle pins out of the side rods, the crank pins have to be in the 6 o'clock position, so that the knuckle pins can be pushed into the larger spoke of the Boxpok wheel, in order for the front and back side rods to be lowered off the intermediate rod.

HOWEVER... in that same orientation, none of the holes in the Boxpok wheels line up with the hole for the wrist pin... meaning that now, the wrist pin CANNOT be inserted into the hole on the crosshead.

Kelly answered that question already, indicating that such considerations were not a priority in the overall design of these machines, so we are SOL in that regard.

As additional background information, this locomotive uses floating BUSHINGS on all of the crankpins that are simply pushed into place (by hand) and (in the case of #1, 3, and 4 crankpins) held in place by large washers, while on the #2 (main crankpin) held in place by the eccentric crank.

Pulling bearings in or out won't have any effect as it is the driving wheel itself that is blocking access to the wrist pin hole, and turning wheels individually is NOT an option, as the rods on the opposite side are still on.

I hope that clears up a few points...

Joe,

It sounds like you've been through the wringer, and it looks like you've gotten some good advice. Only thing I might add is that the wrist pin job I observed in Valle de Mexico was also done with the crankpins at bottom dead center.

Best of luck, and watch your toes...

hmm,,, jack on a board/brick (could be a silly mini-piston car jack) or 2 with a crosswise board to hold the pin, the crosswise board sits on 2 boards/brisks to either side, lift the pin on the jack....stop, place more boards/bricks on the side, drop pin, add boards/bricks to jack, lift/rinse repeat till full up. no bodies, no hands in the way.

You might have mini-wood pieces nailed to the side of the pin (to the board) to keep it from rolling.

I'm thinking you don't want to chain wrap it and lift with the chain wrench, you don't want to burr the metal on the pin.

another flash thought, 2 chain wrenches wrapped to a board the pin is set on it with small anti-rolling wood pieces, wrenches mounted to either side,...lift away

I wish I were closer and could see what's going on. This isn't the most pleasant job in the world but it's not Rocket surgery.
It would help if you would post a picture or two. I can't fathom the wrist pin being that huge. Off the top of my head, I think 1522's was at least six inches and I laid under the crosshead and finessed it into the hole in the driver and fidgeted it into place. There isn't room for a bunch of people under there or chain hoists, etc.
Post a couple of pictures.