We're looking for a medium base Pyle National lamp socket used in the non adjustable flush mounted headlight applied by ALCO to early post WWII diesel switchers. The original is phenolic (Bakelite). It tracked, carbonized and shorted. If it's possible, we want to preserve SP 1474s original configuration and so this inquiry to the community of preservationists for a replacement socket source.

Perhaps take a remaining original and have a duplicate 3D printed? I'll bet you could get it designed for cheap in CAD or Google Sketch-up (freeware), and printed for cheap at a place like Shapeways. Then everyone could print one if they needed. It wouldn't be original, but modern plastics also won't short.

And won't hold up to the required temperatures, either. I wish people would get off this 3D printing kick until the process proves itself at making things that are actually useful.

As to the socket in question, any chance of posting a picture. There's been a LOT of medium Edison base ceramic sockets made over the years for signs and other enclosed fixtures that might work, maybe someone will recognize a possible source.

Richard,

Can you post a photo of the socket in question?

Scott

Going to have to politely disagree. I specifically mentioned Shapeways as they have a proven process for 3D printing ceramic materials. I say this as I eat from my custom printed oven safe dish. Thanks!

I wish people would stop leapfrogging to 3-d printing as the only modern tech. CNC mills are far more important.

Last night I went searching for a specific light socket for a friend's floor lamp for repair.

In the course of flipping through hundreds of light sockets at several lamp parts suppliers, I ran across ceramic light sockets absolutely identical to the vintage ceramic sockets in the PRR gooseneck light fixtures I've restored in past years. Cheap.

It's not impossible that your desired socket is still inventoried somewhere by some industrial or electrical supplier.

Thanks all for the (lively) responses. I'll post a picture for positive id. later this week. Got to say It's hard (for me) to imagine laser melted ceramic material being sprayed in layers then bonding together into a homogeneous, durable solid. If the technology is there, it's a restorationist's dream come true. Think of all the castings and molded plastic 'modern' parts that could be reproduced without the expense of manufacturing the tooling first.

Scott, Here are photos of the remains of the Pyle National LS 10 H, socket rated 660W, 250V built to last but obviously not for ever. Loose parts are assembled into a phenolic shell. The leads are soldered to the poles.

The evolution of that part is probably a ceramic.

Try Power Rail in PA.

EMD 8228323 is a lamp receptacle used in number box and walkway light applications.Perhaps, that will do the job.

Dave

I am in the same dilemma. Probably a lot of possibilities out there. Anybody have dimensions on an EMD 8228323 is a lamp receptacle used in number box and walkway light applications?

I happened upon in my "shop" a ceramic fixture. Was thinking about making a sleeve to mount it. Would prefer a closer to original.

A ceramic 3d print might be the answer. I have done 3d design and printing. I might have to see if I can produce a 3d solid suitable for printing.

Dale Grice

Well, if the ceramic socket has a smaller outside diameter than the clamp it may be easy to make a split bushing that clamps the outside of the ceramic socket and slips inside the clamp. If you cut a slit along the length of the bushing (with a handheld hacksaw) you can probably "bridge" the gap in diameters. The clamp will compress the split bushing and provide a firm grip on the ceramic socket.

Some plastic like "PEEK" would probably work fine in this application. I would avoid making a metal bushing (brass, etc) since the temperature change (bulb lit/bulb not lit) would cause the brass bushing to expand and press too hard on the ceramic socket. Ceramics do not like being compressed.

Get a 3 inch long "chunk" of 1-1/2" and make a bushing. Probably last another 50 years.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7269k12/=102lhbh

But you need a basic machine shop (lathe) to do this.

If that is not available you may be able to wrap the ceramic socket with some tape and make it work for a while. Something like this might work;

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7438t11/=102lifi

Cheers, KevinK

We would probably have made a new socket holder out of linen reinforced phenolic rod or tube. In time that aluminum socket will probably give you trouble. It is not intended for use in a damp location, you should look for a brass one.

When I was still at Black River back in 2002, as a part of the project to build an elevated passenger platform to replace the falling apart tie wall, I added 4 recreations of PRR gooseneck lamps based off PRR Standard Plan No. 58756 Rev. E. The fabrication was a pet project I set Scott Jepsen on and the result was really nice. One of the 4 is seen in this photo:



I am curious what the original lamp reflector and socket looked like.

I basically had to go with something that I could get locally that threaded onto the 1/2" conduit. The reflectors were in stock at Finkle's Hardware in Lambertville, NJ. I even put low wattage sign bulbs in them, they just "looked right". Last I saw they were all still there... it's a tight squeeze running a bay window caboose past them.