I just wanted to share some ideas for replacing boiler jackets on park engines.

In 1985 when 6213 recieved her cosmetic restoration, all the asbestos lagging was removed, the engine recieved a lot of work, and a new jacket was applied.

The question in many peoples mind is what do you then put under the jacket. A number of misguided individuals like to put insulation back in (on a PARK ENGINE). This was done on 6218 in the early 1990s and as a result of all the water being trapped by the insulation that jacket is very badly rotted.

On 6213 Cedar blocks of wood were placed around the circumferance of the boiler, and this is what supports the jacket (except for the area around the firebox, where styrofoam was used). This system has been working great for almost 30 years now. Any water that gets under the jacket, quickly exits from the bottom and does not collect and does not rot out the jacket. This method is also very sturdy, as we've had several people walking on top of the boiler at the same time, and the jacketing does not budge.

Today I happened to be under 6213 and I glanced up at the bottom of the jacket and saw that everything was still in great shape (almost 30 years later).

Today we also came up with an improvement to this system (which is what prompted this post). Rather then using Cedar blocks, one now has the option of using those composite plastic boards that people have been using in their patio decks, and fences and most likely last forever.

Or the best thing thing you can do, is move your engine inside, namely to a roundhouse, which is what we preparing the engine for right now.

Nice to hear some feedback about a system that works. Good suggestion for spacers, and all the better as that plastic "wood" is made from recycled plastic junk - steam goes "green"! No doubt the best preservation technique for all railroad equipment is getting it under a roof. Please keep us appraised with regard to this. Since 6167 is finally getting attention (thank you, guys who have worked on her), is there any chance of pushing the Fort Erie people toward a major dive into 6218? From what we've seen posted, you can watch her dissolve over a matter of months. So sad.

I haven't heard from the guys in Fort Erie for a while now, and even when I did, it sounded pretty hopeless.

Joe

The plastic wood idea sounds good at first thought. I would double check the structural quality at high temperatures, and then also the possible temperature a confined space of black painted steel in your climate. Maybe stick with cedar after all?

I am actually in search of one of those "magic composites that last forever" precisely for spacers... in this case between a flatcar center-sill and its wooden deck. Last evolution of the car, the wooden deck was in contact with the center sill, holding water against the steel, and resulting in massive spalling of center sill and rotting of the wood.

I've looked at Trex, in fact my local Lowe's has the gray Trex on discount. But it looks like Trex is a composite of plastic and wood chips. I fully expect water is going to penetrate deep enough into the Trax to get to the first layer of wood chips, and we'll be back to the same problem of water retention and rot...

Has anyone spotted some composites they really like?

For whatever reasons, the Frisco did an excellent job of cosmetically restoring for parks. They got rid of the lagging, put spacers and bands around the boiler then laid up galvanized jacketing on top of that. That was how we found 1522 when we started her restoration. The only one I know of that they didn't do this to was the 4501, which went to Dallas.
They just drug her out and sent her southwest from St. Louis as she was. Never heard the reason.

Wow, that's awesome.

Another reason I love CN is they're so cheap, they couldn't even be bothered to plug the exhaust on the dynamo, and it wasn't until 20 years after being placed on display that someone finally did.

Last year we took the dynamo off the engine and one of our guys is working on it. He opened it up only to discover that the turbine was badly corroded.

I like Trex. haven't had the chance to use it on a restoration project, but I have had it on a deck in a wet, shady spot for the last dozen years, and we are in a climate zone that has multiple freeze/thaw cycles each winter. Trex DOES NOT SPALL. It does not become waterlogged. It is not wood chips covered with plastic; the chips go through the extruder screw with the melted plastic. The heat evaporates whatever moisture is in the chips, and the pressure thoroughly impregnates the pores of the wood. I have boards with cut ends that have had 3/8" radius round edges run on the corners with a carbide bit in a router, and after twelve years those surfaces are every bit as sound as they originally were. If Trex has any disadvantage at all, it is that it's heavier than similar sized wood, because all the pores are totally filled with polyethylene.

One place I think Trex would really shine is running boards on restored freight cars. I've seen no end of boxcar and caboose restorations that still lack their running boards, because the owners are afraid that whatever they might put up there will simply rot away and damage their "lifetime" rubber roof. Trex would be perfect for this, since it should (it hasn't been on the market long enough to really know) last every bit as long as the EDPM rubber membrane. The only potential downside is Trex is not as stiff as wood, and the maximum span between support on cars with steel pnel roofs might allow the boards to sag... we won't know until someone tries it, and then many years after. But, Trex recommends stickering piles of their 1.25" thick deck boards no longer than every 36" to prevent sagging, and that should be fine for most wood roof applications, because the typical carline, and therefore saddle spacing is normally less than that. The 1.25 x 5.5 deck boards would be just perfect for long lasting cosmetic running boards, and the saddles should be able to be cut from Trex deck railing posts.

Cool I'm glad that this information is getting out there.

The one problem I see with cedar blocks is they will absorb moisture, and will hold it against the boiler shell, so in thirty years, there may be just as much rust pitting of the boiler as would have happened if the magnesia block was still in place. Foam insulation board won't hold water, but will keep it against the boiler shell via capillary action. Rigid composites like Trex are stiff enough that they should only generate a single line of contact, but have the disadvantage that they are heavy.

The group that recently re-jacketed Soo Line 2713 in Stevens Point tried a different approach. They used lengths of 1-1/2" plastic plumbing pipe wired to the boiler every 4" - 6". This pipe has an OD of just about 2", so is correct for replacing the common 2" block, and was small enough to fit between most rivets and staybolt caps. It generates only single lines of contact on the boiler, but of course, it only provides lines of support for the jacket, so walking on top of the engine could dent it.

I've often wondered if steel rebar spacers wouldn't work well. They are available in 5' lengths and multiple heights to match whatever thickness lagging used to be there; shorter spacers could be used over welts, etc. The base style has nothing but plastic covered wire points that would touch the boiler shell, and would be good for dodging rivets. The "upper" style has three continuous wires along their length, one on top and two on the bottom that would touch the boiler, and should offer more resistance to being crushed by someone walking on the jacket. These are also plastic coated. This material would be easy to wire in place, and would promote maximum air flow over the boiler shell.

Take a look here for hat is available:

http://www.conacweb.com/rebar_steel_spacers.htm

Bear In mind, those Cedar blocks have been on 6213 boiler for 30 years now and the jacket is still in pristine condition. The entire circumfrance of the boiler is not covered in wood, they are spaced out.