I had a meeting with the Board of our RR society, and they were very positive about our efforts. One of the members is related to the owner of the local tourist RR, and offered some help in removing the housing over the diesel. That way we will have better access to the injectors.
Our basic starting point is to remove the injectors and run some oil into the cylinders. After that, we will try to bar the engine by hand to see if it can be turned over.We will also weld another support to take the strain off the cracked bell housing.

If you oil the cylinders leave the injectors OUT while it's being barred over, and leave them out until you can crank it over at regular speed and blow the cylinders out thoroughly. There is very little room in a diesel engine at TDC so it does not take much to hydrolock the engine, and when you do put the injectors in, it can easily start on that residual oil and potentially start to run away as it burns that oil off.

Western Railway Museum didn't take this locomotive because it doesn't fit our collection policy (electric railways of the West or closely related). I'm glad it has found a good home.

We are finally starting to work on the engine. We just removed the stack and muffler so we can access the top of the engine. We plan to pull the injectors on Wednesday. We have been watching some Youtube videos on how to do it.
I also took about 30 photos of various parts of the engine and cab.

Once again,
We would like to thank all the members here that contributed their very valuable advice.

Today was the crucial day to work on the engine. I was afraid that every bolt and nut would be rusted and the engine would be a disaster.
Fortunately, that was not the case! All the bolts on the valve covers came off rather easily, and the valve train looked like it was brand new. No rust, no gunk, no foreign bodies.
We removed the #1 and #2 metering rods and springs and put each in a numbered ziplock bag.
We then drove into town and met with the Cummins people. They were very helpful and a mechanic showed us the special tool they use to remove the injectors. We then went to Harbor Freight and bought a similar tool.
After that we came home and soaked our tired bodies in the spa.

OK, that is one accessory that would recruit a lot of members!

We made great progress today, we pulled all 6 injectors using a Harbor Freight $25 slide hammer instead of the Cummins $200 tool. We will take them in to Cummins to get them recalibrated.
Also, the good news was we were able to manually turn the engine (happy dance)
We do have a mystery, however. I ordered a rfeplacement Motorola Voltage Regulator, and found it is rated at 32 volts. The Alternator is a Motorola 24 Volt alternator. Also, the starter and solenoid are 24 volts.
From my understanding, the regulator would always have the alternator working. Can anyone help?
Thank you

Today was a banner day for us. We are going to send the injectors out to be cleaned and calibrated tomorrow. The local Cummins place said they send them out and double the cost. We are going to pack them up tomorrow and mail them to the place in Anaheim.
We also removed all 4 batteries from the cab to make room for the new ones. We got the information on the type of battery from the Cummins people.
We also removed the starter and starter solenoid so we can bench test them with the new battery. I am planning to buy the battery in the near future.
It is a heavy duty t24 volt truck battery.
I have also ordered the correct regulator for the alternator, plus a new alternator.

We have a puzzlement with this engine. The starter and solenoid for the Cummins is marked 24 volts.
The alternator is also marked 24 volts. BUT there is a 32 volt regulator hooked up to the alternator.
My worry is that the switcher control contactors operate on 32 volts, but the starter is a 24 volt starter.
Was this somehow jury rigged? I am not happy running a 24 volt starter at 32 volts.

I'm not sure how relevant this is, but I have a 1957 Allis D14 tractor that still has it's 6 volt starter motor even though the generator, regulator, battery and lights are 12 volt now.

Brian

If you don't like Jerry Rigged....you aint gonna be happy

your unit never had the starter from the factory.

The DC generator was originally used to crank the engine. Someone modified and added the starter.

How many cells does each battery have, and how are they connected?

Originally, you would have four batteries, with 4 cells each, 8 volts nominal, all connected in series, for a total of 32 volts. Each one of these is far bigger and heavier then any standard car, truck, tractor battery.

As for the starter and alternator, they will be fine on 32 volts. The starter in theory, should have a 32 volt solenoid installed, but it probably won't matter.

If you don't like Jerry Rigged....you aint gonna be happy
I worked on a airplane like that once.

your unit never had the starter from the factory.
The replacement engine, the Cummins NHC=250 has a starter

The DC generator was originally used to crank the engine. Someone modified and added the starter.

How many cells does each battery have, and how are they connected?
The original batteries were 4 cells each and connected in series for 32 violts

Originally, you would have four batteries, with 4 cells each, 8 volts nominal, all connected in series, for a total of 32 volts. Each one of these is far bigger and heavier then any standard car, truck, tractor battery.
True

As for the starter and alternator, they will be fine on 32 volts. The starter in theory, should have a 32 volt solenoid installed, but it probably won't matter.
OK we will go with it
Thanks for all your inputs

In the process of identifying everything changed on this switcher, I am not sure what this part is. The original 14E1 valve was replaced by an SA-2.

I am sure SA would be 'straight air' and that the trainline brakes have been eliminated

We are in the process of getting 3 Schedule 31 batteries that are rated at 1000 cranking amps, a number we got from the folks at Cummins.
Our first task is to check out the solenoid and starter to see if they need work.
If they check OK, we will remount them on the engine.
In the meantime we are fabricated an engine support to take the load off the bell housing.
We want to turn the engine with the injectors out to see what happens.
I am also checking prices on 32volt battery chargers. I got a call from the GNB Industrial rep who sent me some great data