I know it's probably a long shot, but we don't have anything in our archives on them. We are looking for any documentation that might exist regarding Chicago T35 nonlifting injectors. We anticipate needing to inspect and/or rebuild two of them in the near future, so drawings and specifications for the internals would be especially helpful.

Thanks!

About 25 years ago, I got two of these from park display engines for Texas State RR #500 (AT&SF 1316). I recall that before we installed them, the boss man got me to measure the tubes and nozzles, and make drawings of the innards in case we should ever need them. They might still be there somewhere if you're lucky. Try calling the shop in Rusk, ask for Larry Henderson, and GOOD LUCK.

How different is the T35 in design from the T60? Quite a few preserved engines have the latter, and that might give you a guide to any dimensions Sammy didn't 'get'...

The reason they had me make drawings of the parts I could measure was that there were no drawings or other literature available. Looking online only turns up info on live steam size copies 25 years later. What I CAN say is that the injector bodies were all drop in replacements, but there were definitely two distinct versions of the guts, one of which was a high capacity setup. Are those two different models ??? Don't ask me.

If you're starting with a complete injector, here's a little advice: 1) To work on these, tack some bolts to a heavy workbench or shop table, then stack enough washers on these bolts so that the injector body doesn't touch the surface when you start wailing on it. The idea is to hang on to the injector using the mounting holes on the body, because it was meant to be secured that way. 2) Don't apply heat !!! Use Kroil or similar inside and out, and let it soak for a bit. 3) Don't hammer on the damn thing !!! If you want to help the penetrating oil, use something like a wood wheel chock to tap on the places you will be taking apart. 4) You will need to make a nozzle extractor. I used a piece of schedule 80 pipe, whatever size fits, one end you can cut square with a bandsaw, then mill a slot across that end, to fit of course. The other end you might want to weld a couple pieces of bar stack (or scrap) on there for a handle. 5) Watch out for the setscrews !!! These are well hidden, steel with sharp points on them. On my day off, somebody tried to help me out by taking one of our injectors apart --- TOO BAD that he extracted the tubes and nozzles without removing the setscrews first !!! It tore the threads all to Hell inside the body, but we installed the tubes in an extra body and got the injector to work fine.

The parks that donated those injectors were happy with us making some dummies up and reinstalling them on the display locomotives, and we kept the complete injectors...