Hi Eric.

Not quite. The original Plymouth clutch assembly is going into storage and will be available if parts are needed later.

The new setup uses the PTO clutch attached to the rear of the engine. That’ll be our “drive” component.

The next in-line is the transmission input shaft, “driven” component. TBH it’s not a strong design by Plymouth.

I will use the original transmission input shaft and will have to couple it to the output shaft of the PTO.

I’m installing the original bell housing parts to add strength, and possibly an additional support bearing to make the transmission much stronger and well designed than when it was new.

Should make more sense as I put it all together.

Mark K.

Got everything apart today. Looks like I’ll need to do some repairs to the clutch brake lever. The hole is pretty worn.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0242EIT ... U-32FAjEqA

https://share.icloud.com/photos/04c7ANb ... wKQTmxzfFA

Here are some videos from today. They are temporary links. I’ll have to figure out a better way to attach videos to this forum.

We adapted a small engine, belt, and pulley setup to spin the transmission input shaft. Was nice to get the fluid circulating, axles spinning, and chains lubricated. Plus, all four gears seem to work well.

I’ll get that old fluid drained out and will refill the transmission. Looks like it has two separate sections with their own fluid reservoirs. One for the “transmission” part, gears 1-4. The other section is shown in the video, has the input shaft, final drive, and reverser assembly.

The kids decided to ‘help’ me out the other day. They made a climbing course out of #6. Glad they are taking an interest in this stuff:)

"
We adapted a small engine, belt, and pulley setup to spin the transmission input shaft."

That's a SERIOUS side load on that shaft. Keep that up and undo what you have already done. That "oil" looks like mud.

I’m not running it like that for long. Just wanted to get things moving and then change the fluid. The fluid looks better in person than the video shows. But thanks for the commentary.

I’ll have to look up what the side load of that bearing is. Is a double row angular contact bearing. Everything spins pretty free, so I didn’t think it would be enough load to damage the bearing. We use similar bearings for car and truck wheels. They handle tremendous side loads and are usually smaller than this one. I’m sure you know the math better than I do.

Mark

PS the bearing is a 5312 2RS. For some reason I can’t upload the screenshot of the specs, but feel free to look them up. I’m showing static load of 21000lbs and dynamic load of 27000lbs. If you feel my pulley system is getting close to causing damage, let me know and I’ll remove it at once.

I don't believe there is any way to directly post video here, posting to utube or a similar site first seems to be the only way.

Thanks PMC.

I’ll look into that.

I use Google Drive. If you have a Google account or gmail, which automatically includes everything Google, you have access to it. You can decide on the level of sharing. In this case I would pick the option the anyone with the link can view. Then copy the link and post it. Drive has a nifty link copy tool.

Thanks Eric.

I’ll get my wife or kids to teach me how to do that:)

It’s only a small update today.

I have all the “low flow” parts off the engine. Water pump, coolant manifold, after cooler, and an assortment of smaller pipes.

Cleaning up the ‘new’, high flow, stuff now. Need to source some o-rings and gaskets. Then reassemble the cooling system.

Will post more info as it comes together!

Still waiting for my coolant gaskets and bypass pipe to come in…

Figured now is a good time to start working on the windows.

Plymouth has a nice design for this. The glass frames and slides unbolt. Then I take the assembly to my work. Here’s the general condition of the windows. I have the first one apart and ready for the blast shop.

Some of the glass is broken and will need to be replaced. I’m learning how to clean the years of dirt and minerals off of the good pieces of glass. Not sure if you can see in the picture, but it has a decent amount of crust and mineral build up.

Just a reminder: If it has FRA Part 223 compliant glazing in it anywhere, you have to replace the glass with 223 compliant glass. Mighty expensive.

No. 6 is older than 50 years and is a heritage/tourist loco not in common carrier service. If there currently is no 223 glass, you can use safety glass, acrylic, polycarbonate, etc. 1/4” thick is typical. Waivers are no longer required.

I do not have the qualifications to resolve this question, but I know of an entity that used what they called "automotive style" glass in a restoration of a unit from the 1960s (that was missing every centimeter of glazing), rather than the FRA-mandated glass. As I recall they said that they weren't required to use 223 glass on a preserved unit, and the guy in charge of the restoration would have known, as a retired shop foreman/ actual diesel mechanic from a terminal road.

Use "laminated safety glass" which has the thin plastic layer, to hold everything together in case of breakage. Do NOT use "tempered" glass, which breaks into a jillion little bits.

Lexan will haze over in 4-5 years, and have to be replaced. It also scratches easily, even the MR5000 "Mar-Gard" stuff.

It's coming along nicely!

Howard P.

Thanks for the input guys.

I’m looking at CFR 223.3 b, “Does not apply to…”
Looks like I fit most of these definitions. We aren’t connected to the rail network, it will operate only on STRT tracks for MOW and excursions. I did see the section that once it has 223 glass it can’t revert back. Which it doesn’t have. We also operate the RR as a “Yard”. Slow speed limit, being able to stop in half of sight distance..etc. Technically #6 will be a “Yard Locomotive”.

So I should be good to go with original spec glass.

As always. Thanks for the input and correct me if I’m wrong. Certainty don’t want to break any rules.

Mark K.